Basque Dining is a Genuine Nevada Treat

Martin Hotel, Winnemucca

  I once had a friend from Southern California ask me: what’s the deal with Basque restaurants in Northern Nevada?

  I explained to him that Nevada’s Basque connection can be traced to the arrival of Basque sheepherders who, starting in about the 1890s, came to Nevada to work. At that time, there were a number of large and small sheep operations, mostly in the northern part of state.

  Most were young men, who hailed from the Basque region, which borders France and Spain. The work was demanding and lonely, requiring the sheepherder to spend months in the most remote, isolated, often desolate parts of Nevada, without much companionship.

  As a result of such circumstance, it was almost impossible for most Basques to assimilate into American society, as did many other immigrants. Obviously, opportunities for settling down and establishing a family were also extremely limited.

  Many Basques looked upon their American experience as an opportunity to escape poverty at home and, hopefully, make enough money to be able to return home to buy a farm or other business.

  All of these factors helped create the need for the Basque hotel. Not every Basque immigrant returned to the Pyrenees. Some sent for wives and family and chose to establish businesses in America, including small hotels and boardinghouses.

  These became the focus of Basque culture in a community. The sheepherders, down from the hills, would flock to the hotels for a warm meal, soft bed and an opportunity to catch up on news from home, read Basque newspapers and speak in their native tongue.

  By the beginning of this century, Basque boardinghouses had cropped up in a number of Nevada communities, including Winnemucca, Elko, Reno and Gardnerville.

  While the sheep business largely faded away over time, the Basque boardinghouses and hotels evolved into restaurants open to all. In many, however, meals were and are still served community-style, meaning customers sit at long tables, sometimes next to strangers.

  These days, there are some 10 Basque eateries in Nevada. A few of the oldest and best known are the Martin Hotel at 94 W. Railroad Street in Winnemucca, the Star Hotel at 246 Silver Street in Elko, J.T Basque Bar and Dining Room at 1426 U.S. Highway 395 in Gardnerville and Louie’s Basque Corner at 301 East 4th Street in Reno.

  Other Basque dining places in the state include Toki Ona at 1550 Idaho Street in Elko, Bakarra Basque Bistro (formerly known as Ormachea’s) at 180 Melarkey Street in Winnemucca, the Villa Basque Café at 730 Basque Way in Carson City and Ogi Deli Bar & Pintxos at 450 Commercial Street in Elko.

  All, but the last two, which have slightly different menus, generally serve simple but hearty fare—fit for a hardworking sheepherder—which can include steaks, chops, lamb, chicken and rabbit. Meals are also usually served with multiple courses that can include soup, salad, French Fries, Beans, vegetables, and a dessert. Come hungry!

  Another local Basque tradition at most of the Basque hotel/boardinghouses, which have bars, is a concoction known as a Pícon Punch.

  The drink is made using a European nut liquor named "Amer Picon" (not related to the pecan, which is a different nut) that is mixed with a splash of grenadine, a bit of brandy and soda water with a lemon slice garnish. Keep in mind, a Pícon Punch is one stiff beverage—so pace yourself.

  As they say in the Basque language: “On Egin!” or “enjoy your meal!”